
Wow, so what happened with the time? It’s been a month and a half since my last post.
Well, I guess there really wasn’t much to write!
Amber is growing at a normal pace for a puppy both physically and behaviorally.
House breaking is having its ups and downs, but she is getting the idea. Jess and the family are making great strides with Amber but are becoming a little slack at preventing some bad behaviors. One being begging and taking food from the baby.
Because there is such high reinforcement from a baby dropping food or feeding the dog, that asking any animal especially in the beginning stages of training to leave the food alone is virtually impossible.
I suggested they keep Amber separated from S. when she is eating, and then only if Amber is calm after S. is done, can they let her out. Also giving Amber a special treat filled toy while the baby is eating, can distract Amber from the falling food. We would also start to implement the “go to your spot” so that eventually she wouldn’t have to be locked up. If they had not strayed from this routine, Amber would eventually learn that being calm during eating time would get her great rewards.
Being a parent of two young children can be overwhelming and distracting, but by just taking those few extra minutes of prevention could eliminate a future of frustration with your dog.
The family worked on Amber’s obedience lessons at home, but also took a group class with my other students. This helped Amber with socializing with people and dogs, but also helped with her distraction work.
Many people don’t understand that although you may work diligently with your dog at home, you will never get the “bomb proof” dog if you do not work in other environments and at different distraction levels. This is called proofing your dog. You teach your dog the obedience behaviors in a quiet, non-distracting environment then carefully and sloooowwwly introduce heavier distractions. You can not expect to teach your dog to lie down at home in your kitchen, and then the following month take it to a softball game and expect the same behavior. Any trainer worth a dime will tell you this. If not, then they are probably using harsh training methods such as electronic collars.
I hear time and again, “I don’t have to socialize my dog, because I have two other dogs at home its good with”. Not only will your dog be afraid of unfamiliar dogs, but may become extremely dependent on the other dog or you. This is called “learned helplessness. “ Think about it this way, if you had children, and the only human contact they ever had in their entire lives were with the parents and siblings, and they never saw the rest of the world except their home how socially stable do you think your children would be?
Take your puppy everywhere! Don’t over whelm him especially at such a young age, but take him to doggy fun places, the park, pumpkin picking, Christmas tree cutting, the feed store. Get to know your dogs stress signals. Watch his body posture. Is he stiff or tail tucked? Panting or licking his lips? Large dinner plate pupils? If so, it may be too much for him, take it slow by going to the park when no one is there. Or is he calm? Wagging his tail and happily greeting people? Sitting or lying down. Well, maybe you can move on to a little bigger distraction or environment. Highly reinforce your dog ANY time he shows calm behavior. If you stay calm and in control, your dog will also
Ok, we know Amber has some dog to dog issues. Whether it’s from coming from a household of all dominate large dogs, that reportedly were harsh with her and her sister, or if she is picking up some of these behaviors from Ottis, I’m not sure. She may have been taken from the litter to early and never learned proper “doggy” behavior from her mom and siblings. Either way, the history is not really important. Fear or aggression (aggression usually stems from fear) is all worked with the same way. Re-direction, desensitizing and associative learning.
So how does Amber react?
She did well in class. Rob and Jess where able to keep her focused on them with treats and her obedience. This is re-directing the behavior. If she is looking at them, and doing other things, she won’t be focusing on the other dogs. She will also come to associate calm behavior and yummy treats with other dogs, associative learning. Off leash, she’s ok with play, but is cautious when first meeting another dog. She is fearful and will react in a fearful way if a dog moves to fast towards her, but once she is familiar with the dog, she can play nicely, occasionally getting a little to rough. She is very vocal and sometimes Jess reacts too quickly as if she is going to fight. I try to discourage Jess from over reacting, because this can make a situation worse. Calmly get your dogs attention, re-direct her or calmly remove her from play.
So what do you do if your dog starts barking and carrying on when seeing another dog on leash?
What you DON’T do is what most people always do.
Holler and start yanking on the dog’s collar.
A couple of things are going on here.
First, your dog at that level of distraction is not focused on you. It is focused on the other dog, especially if the other dog is reacting the same way. When you start to scream you are feeding into that high level of excitement. Like a pack of dogs that are going for the kill.
Second, you are pulling tightly on the leash, which causes your dog’s body posture to change. The other dog, which may at first have been calm, now may see your dog as a threat because of the stiff straight body, which in turn will make your dog feel more threatened.
Lastly, if you correct your dog every time they give a growl or bark, you are suppressing their warning signals . You will create a dog that doesn’t warn you, but who will go right to the bite. Dogs as a species do not like confrontation. Its fight or flight. If they can not get away, or can not let the other “being” know that they are afraid, they will bite. I hear time and time again, “I don’t know what happened; she just bit the dog out of the blue!” This goes for people too. I highly doubt it. The dog was probably giving warnings for quite some time, and no one heeded them or they were suppressed. AH you’re paying attention now!!
Aggression or fear does not just go away. They do not just “grow out of it” It is something that progressively gets worse and dogs get so much better at things with practice.
Heed my warning. If your puppy shows any signs of fear or aggression work with it immediately and for the rest of its life. If any doubt on the level of your dogs reactivity or how to resolve it, call a positive motivational trainer.
But for now, if you have a good puppy and may be experiencing some mild reaction to other dogs, try using some of these tips.
Stay calm!
Socialize, socialize, socialize! Puppy Play!
If you don’t know the other dog and are nervous or uncomfortable. Walk away! Keep walking, don’t stand there and let your dog go crazy! Encourage your dog to follow you and when he is calmer, ask for a sit, praise for the CALM behavior. Keep his attention on you or a toy. RE-DIRECT!
If you meet up with a dog, ask the owner if their dog is dog friendly. You can somewhat tell by the dogs body language, but still ask. Remember the suppressing the growl thing? The other owner may have done that with their dog! If either dog is very stiff or making direct “hard” eye contact, CALMLY tell your dog lets go and walk the other way. If they want to meet on friendly terms, let them stiff for gods’ sake. Don’t pull back on the leash tight. Don’t let them get tangled, but let them do their doggy stuff. As gross as it sounds, let them sniff butt. To them, it’s like you shaking hands with someone. If either dog tries to “mount” the other, even by just putting it’s head on the shoulders of the other dog, calmly tell your dog, ok, lets go and walk away. If they are play “bowing”, and bodies are soft and they are curving around each other, that’s ok. If one lies on its back and is submissive, let them sniff!!
It drives me absolutely NUTS when people want proper “human” etiquette from a dog!
Ok, so one more rant and then I’m off this subject.
If your dog is dog friendly, don’t assume that everyone else’s is also.
I was at 4H fair years ago with my Jack Russell, Peanut. Well anyone who is familiar with this breed knows that they can be pretty defensive. That’s putting it nicely.
I did little agility demos at the fair and as long as she knew what was around her she was fine.
I’ve always kept her close and a watchful eye on her, because she would react to other dogs if surprised.
At this 4H fair, I had peanut on a short lead sitting right next to me while I was getting food.
Someone with her exuberant Golden was standing about five feet away from me. She did not pay attention to her dog as he was jumping around at the very end of his six foot lead and got into Peanuts face. In doggy etiquette, that is being very rude. Peanut turned around lunged, snarled and barked at the Golden. If you know anything about terriers they can be pretty frightening but usually harmless.
That was the moment the Golden’s owner decided to pay attention to her dog, She had a few choice words to say to me and my vicious little ten pound ankle biter, and that neither one of us should have been there. She walked away in a huff, muttering under her breath how rude some dog owners could be, while her Golden was pulling her through the heavy crowd of people dodging left and right to stay out of her Goldens way.
Two lessons here. Have control of your dog at all times and don’t assume the world around you is always friendly.
My phone rang, it was Jess
“Yes?”
“Guess what your grand-daughter is doing?”
“What?”
“Riding Amber like a horse”.
“Oh boy!”
“Amber was licking the dishes in the dish washer, and I got tired of telling her no, so I just let her do it, and S. decided to ride her”.
“Did Amber growl at all? Especially with the food?”
“Nope, she just kept on licking.”
What an awesome dog!




